Trek the GR20 of Corsica

Our adventure begins in Conca, a one-time shepherd village among forested hills, and the southern start point of the GR20. There’s time to settle into our accommodation this afternoon. Around 6pm, say salute to your tour leader and fellow travellers, where we gather as a group to get to know each other and learn more about the adventures ahead during a welcome briefing. Your tour leader then ensures a big welcome over dinner together. Want extra time in Corsica? Secure pre-tour hotel nights through your sales representative.

The first hiking day is tough, a good introduction to the pace and challenge ahead. The trail leads uphill from Conca, following an ancient herders’ route through a rocky landscape of granite blocks and pines. The route continues to the Paliri refuge, then crosses the Finosa col before arriving at the hamlet of Bavella, below the Bavella Needles, great granite spikes that create a rocky ridge. We spend the night in dorms, resting after a challenging first day.

Before dawn, we take the Alpine Variant trail, which leads steeply uphill before passing the base of several granite pinnacles. Plunge into the valley before following an easy route through woods towards the Asinao refuge, before heading steeply up to the magnificent ridgeline of Monte Alcudina. We then leave the high ground and head down towards the Cuscionu plateau, the largest on the island. We sleep in dorms at a shepherds’ cabin on the edge of the plateau.

Pick up the trail on the plateau and cross the open green pasture with streams and little water holes. We then make our way uphill through an old forest of dwarf oak trees up to the Col de l’Agnone. From here, we start one of the best ridge hikes in Corsica; it is very exposed, the trail is tricky and you may find it difficult to imagine that there’s a way through. A real adventure! The trail runs back and forth over the ridge, before we drop to the village of Cozzano, a hive of activity in the heart of the mountains.

From the refuge, continue along a ridge separating the valley of Taravo and the village of Fiumorbu, after which the trail plunges towards the Col de Laparo. We pass the GR refuge, Prati, where we can stop to enjoy rooftop views of the island. It is sometimes possible to see the Italian islands of Elba and Montecristo. The descent winds rapidly, in and out of the forest, to our destination at the Col de Verde.

The trail rolls gently today and mainly contours through a forest of lariccio pine trees, a symbol of the island. Today’s hike traverses the flanks of the dominating mountain, Monte Renosu. We continue to Bocca Palmente; on a clear day, the views are exceptional, the looming massifs of the Monte d’Oro and the Rotondu towering above. Drop down into a thick forest of pine and beech trees for a relaxing descent, the trail loops back and forth down to Vizzavona, the midway point of the GR20.

Today we start the northern section of the GR20. We typically embark on a steady ascent to the Brêche de Muratellu, taking the path running alongside the Cascade des Anglais up to Muratellu, affording stunning views of the Monte Rotondu. This high-level route follows the ridge, via the summit of Pinzi Corbini to Petra Piana refuge. This is a short but challenging ridge section, steep and exposed. In bad weather, there is an alternative lower valley option, which heads directly to Petra Piana. Tonight we camp near the Petra Piana refuge without access to our bags.

From Petra Piana, a short uphill section takes us to the high ridge above the refuge. The trail is rocky, almost lunar in ambiance. You pass a mountain col and continue the high route. The views are spectacular with Corte, the one-time capital of the island, in the distance and a series of wonderful glacier lakes to discover. From the small clearing above Lake Capitello, we plunge downhill to Manganu refuge on the edge of the Camputile plateau. We camp tonight without access to our bags.

Go gently uphill, a relaxing walk through beech woods and across the green spongy turf to Lac de Nino, where we have a snack and relax on the lake’s banks. This glacier lake is in a sheltered spot, surrounded by spongy peat, with runnels of water and wells, ideal grazing ground for ponies and other animals in summer. We drop down at the Col St Pierre to join a flat horseshoe-shaped trail to Castel di Vergio, a small ski station. At our hotel, we are reunited with our bags and a chance to refresh our backpacks.

The GR20 follows the Golu torrent stream up the valley towards its source. Midway up the valley, the route crosses the torrent, a good place to relax on smooth sunbaked rocks and swim (if you’re feeling brave). The trail leaves the valley floor and heads up to the ridgeline. From here, there are clear views of the west coast villages. The Ciottulu di i Mori refuge, the highest in Corsica, is situated between two daunting mountains: Tafanatu and Paglia Orba. From the refuge, the GR20 falls steeply downhill to Vallone. We camp tonight without access to our bags.

Today is a tough, high-altitude mountain hike. Make your way uphill progressively to the foothills of Monte Cinto, the highest summit on the island. The climb is steep, rocky and slow. After a couple of hours, we arrive at Bocca Crucetta, a ridge that leads to the Pointe des Eboulis; at 8,560ft (2,610m), this is the highest point on the GR20 and the view is spectacular. From here, the path plunges to a small lake on the other side. The trail continues downhill, the scree and rocks giving way to a river and woods as we approach the old ski station of Haut Asco and we are reunited with our bags.

From the ski station, a superb ascent takes us to Bocca di Stagnu at the foot of the Muvrella peak. From Lake Muvrella, the view over Calvi bay is incredible. From here, we head down to the refuge at Carrozzu, which is surrounded by box trees and enjoys great sunsets. We camp here without access to our bags.

The first part of our hike is spectacular, as we enter a semi-circle of high mountains known as the Cirque de Bonifatu. The trail works around its edge offering panoramic views of the highest Corsican peaks. The second half of our day sees us crossing an easier basin area dotted with woodland before arriving at the beautifully situated refuge at Orto di Pobbiu, where we camp without access to our bags.

Our final hiking day is varied and spectacular, from granite mountains to thick dense forests and low-level maquis scrub. The views over the coastline and the Balagne region are superb before we arrive at the bustling village of Calenzana, which is a hive of activity with GR20 hikers. There will be time for high fives and a photo or two to celebrate an incredible achievement, before we catch our transfer (two hours) to Bastia and a meal tonight where we can celebrate our achievements.

Our adventure ends after breakfast, and we begin our return journeys home. The airport is just a 20-minute walk from the hotel, and taxis are available upon request. Speak to your sales representative if you’d like to extend your stay.