Portuguese Camino - Lisbon to Coimbra

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and one of the world’s oldest cities: known as Olispio by the Romans, settled by the Visigoths and the Arabs before becoming the base for the “Discoveries’ – Columbus, Magellan and Vasco de Gama all set sail from here. An earthquake in 1755 destroyed many buildings and dramatically brought an end to this powerful empire. The UNESCO-listed monastery in Belem still stands and is definitely worth a visit, as is the Alfama district for ‘fado’ (music) – or simply enjoy a stroll through the streets of this beautiful city. You will find the first waymark of your Portuguese Camino at the Cathedral.

Transfer to Povoa de Santa Iria de Azoia (at 8.30am, 20mins) where your walk commences. Initially walking through industrial outskirts and modern suburban developments, the last 4km from Alhandra to Vila Franca is riverside and pleasant. Once a Crusader town, Vila Franca is known today for breeding fighting bulls (its Festa do Colete, ‘running of the bulls’, is held in early July). Nearby is a large wetland reserve, home to vast flocks of migrating fowl. Overnight in Vila Franca de Xira. Distance 16km/10mi, ascent/descent approx 130m/427ft (It is possible to walk from Lisbon however the day is very long, approx 9-10hours. Lisbon-Santa Iria is 20km/13km).

Continue along the river, through flat agricultural land – and a couple of industrial zones – to Azambuja, gateway to the fertile floodplains of the Tagus. Azambuja was home to one of Portugal's most famous female matadors, Ana Maria, and its 'running of the bulls' festival is held in May. Overnight in Azambuja. Distance 20km/12.5mi, ascent/descent approx 75m/246ft

Today’s walk follows farm tracks through ‘the market garden of Portugal’, the rich floodplains of the Tagus. Here you’ll find fruit, vegetables and vineyards. Walk via riverside villages before the short steep ascent to Santarem. Once an administrative centre of the Romans, the town was settled by the Moors and considered unassailable until its recapture by the Portuguese in 1149. The beautiful main square is surrounded by churches, and don’t miss the ceramic tiled Igeja de Marvila and the view from Portas do Sol. Overnight in Santarem. Distance 33km/20.5mi, ascent 247m/810ft, descent 148m/485ft

Today’s walk continues on rural tracks and lanes through vineyards, cornfields and villages along the Tagus. If the weather is dry, consider leaving the new path to visit the town of Azinhaga, birthplace of Portugal’s 1998 Nobel Prize winning writer, Jose Saramago. At Golega, the 16th century Parish Church has a beautiful Manueline (Portuguese Gothic) gate and its museum owns a collection of sculptures by Martins Correia. Nearby is the Paul do Boquilobo Nature Reserve, the marsh habitat and breeding ground of several species of water fowl (April to June). Golega’s famous horse fair is held in early November. Overnight in Golega. Distance 33km/20.5mi, ascent 264m/866ft, descent 347m/1138ft

Walk along the Tagus via the abandoned Quinta da Cardiga with its Manueline portal and 16th and 17th tiles. The countryside changes from alluvial plains to undulating hills as you head away from the river. Continue through woodlands and several villages then follow the Nabao river to historic Tomar. In the late 12th century, Tomar’s castle was the headquarters of the Portuguese Templars and the town remains an archetype of Templar layout and architecture. Don’t miss the richly embellished Charola or Round Church in the Convent of Christ. Lots to see and a great feel make Tomar an ideal town for a rest day (must be requested at time of booking). Overnight in Tomar. Distance 30km/18.8m, ascent 588m/1929ft, descent 562m/1844ft

This stage has diverse landscapes. It crosses pastures with holm oaks, olive trees and some pines, interspersed with areas of orchards and fruit trees. There are constant ascents and descents and the walk is peaceful despite being long and mostly on paved roads. Overnight in Alvaiazere. Distance 32km/20mi, ascent 960m/3150ft, descent 700m/2296ft

An easier walk today, this stage has beautiful stretches among olive and holm oak trees, but with rocky paths and paved tracks. There are many little hamlets en route and the mid-way town of Ansiao has a Saturday farmers' market. Cross the 17th bridge leaving Ansiao before heading along forest track through pines and eucalypts, where sap is collected in the traditional method. Continue to the attractive town of Alvorge for your overnight stay. Distance 23km/14mi, ascent 663m/2175ft, descent 681m/2234ft

Today's walk takes you through a variety of landscapes and across undulating terrain, mostly through farmlands on unpaved paths. You pass the Roman ruins at Conimbriga where you can stop and discover the many mosaics before continuing to the town of Condeixa a Nova where you stay tonight. Distance 22km/14mi, ascent 370m/1214ft, descent 558m/1830ft

Today you continue along paved roads and through small hamlets. It's more urban than previous days. The trail is undulating around the town of Palheira. Along the way, Cruz dos Mourocos has remnants of a Roman aqueduct and the town of Santa Clara has a dramatic and somewhat macabre story: Dona Ines de Castro secretly wed Pedro, son of King Alfonso IV, and was tragically murdered by the King as he feared her Spanish heritage. On his father’s death and subsequent coronation, Pedro exhumed Dona Ines' corpse, crowned it and forced courtiers to pay homage and kiss her decaying hand, in revenge. Cross the Mondego River to Coimbra, a thriving university town with many historic buildings. Overnight in Coimbra. Distance 16km/10mi, ascent 380m/1247ft, descent 460m/1509ft

Trip concludes after breakfast - or continue along the next stage of the Portuguese Camino to Porto. Coimbra is also a great town for an extra night or two, please ask for our rates.