Peaks of the Balkans Highlights

Welcome to the Balkans! A group transfer from Tirana (city centre, 14:00) or at the TIA airport (15:00) takes you to the historic city of Shkoder (84km/2.5hr) and our centrally located hotel. Time permitting, we stop at the Rozafa castle at the entrance of Shkodra and enjoy the fabulous views, a fore taste for the upcoming days of travel through the Albanian Alps. After checking in to your room, the city calls for a stroll through the pedestrian area lined with bourgeoisie townhouses, a reminder of the city's prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks. Meet the group at 7pm before a delicious dinner and tour briefing. Overnight: Hotel Transfer: (85km/52.8mi) 2.5hrs

The day starts before sunrise as we make our way through the Drin Gorges to the Komani Lake (58km/2h). The picturesque reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is the most attractive route into the Albanian Alps. You're in for a surprise by the ferry, which stops several times to pick up talkative locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46 km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of the Valbona National Park, stopping for a light lunch in the small-city Bajram Curri. In the early afternoon, you reach the Valbona Valley and it’s tower-houses made of stone. The warm-up hike follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with the sweetest wild strawberries. Along the way, the brave can stop for a swimming break at the ice-cold river or a secluded pond. The jagged peaks towering high above you give itchy feet for tomorrow's trek into the highlands. Tonight, you enjoy a delicious, hearty dinner and a well-earned rest after this impression-packed introduction to the Accursed Mountains. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 7km/4.4mi, +250m/825ft, -50m/165ft Transfer time: 3hrs (+3hrs boat)

A 50-min drive takes you to the remote village of Cerem. The hike towards the high border triangle (Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo) takes you across alpine terrain carpeted in wildflowers. Along the way, you can enjoy forest fruits and admire and the breathtaking views of Mt Kolata (2534m). Reaching the rim of the deep cut river canyon and following the high route through a conifer forest, you notice just how much the relief changes between the Western and Eastern Alps. The slopes are speckled with alpine pastures where we will take a break and meet the herdsmen over coffee and raki. In the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1750m), animals roam the grazing grounds freely and time appears frozen. Locals still live in harmony with nature, as humankind did many years ago. In the simple shepherd's huts, you relinquish comfort for one night, in return for warm hospitality. The family prepares the meals, and you learn more about the seasonal lifestyle of the shepherds at the bonfire. Overnight: Basic Shepherds Hut Hike: 16km/10mi +1,250m/4125ft, -650m/2145ft Transfer: 50 min

Wishing farewell to our hosts, we climb out of the valley towards Mt Trekufiri (2366m). At the summit, the borders of three countries merge and there are sweeping vistas of the borderlands. The blueberry covered border trail leads us into Montenegro, around Bogicevica (2374m) and to the secluded Lake Hrid. The tranquil pond reflects the mountains and is shrouded in legends. The lake also provides habitat for newts, salamanders and fireflies. After a refreshing dip above 1.900m, we continue on a trail encompassed by a dense pine forest towards a hamlet of seasonal huts called "Katun". Further down an unfinished road, we reach the scattered settlement of Babino Polje. Here we overnight at the rim of the wilderness at simple but welcoming mountain huts, where the friendly hosts introduce you to the highlights of traditional Montenegrin home-cooking. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 13km/8mi, +600m/1980ft, -850m/2800ft

The Grbaja Valley is one of the most stunning valleys in the Balkans. On a morning transfer, you shuttle into the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2461m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije, it’s an aspiration of many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairytale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow encompassed by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail lets you enjoy a series of panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two peaks of Popadija and Taljanka (2056m). From here, the hostile walls seem almost within reach, and views extend across the border into the Kelmend region of Albania. From the top of the spine, a steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path, where the loop hike closes. Once back down at the valley floor, you can choose one of the beer gardens to enjoy a cold drink. On a transfer, you continue to the family-run guesthouse in Vusanje. Here, the nearby Grla Waterfall invites for an evening stroll, though the views from the veranda over the Accursed Mountains are equally beautiful. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 12km/7.5mi, +950m/3135ft, -950m/3135ft Transfer time: 1.5h and 30min

Hiking through the Ropojana Valley is one of the great delights of the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Formed by a 26km long glacier, the route takes you by a karst spring, where an ice-cold river is born from the melting snow high up in the mountains. The mountain-framed corridor takes you past a dry lake, shepherd huts, and an abandoned military post into the heart of the Albanian Alps. Here, the canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2217m) stands high above the Thethi National Park, forming the highest wall in the Balkans. Arriving at Peja Pass (1.711 m), your guide determines whether the summit can be tackled. A steep descent follows along a well-trodden path leading to the local watering hole. A short transfer to a guesthouse in the center of the lively, iconic village of Theth in the Albanian alps. Overnight: Guesthouse Hike: 11-15km/6.9-9.3mi, +650-1150m/2145-3773ft, -675-1400m/2215-4593ft Transfer time: 30min + 15min

Only a hike through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of the Theth Valley. Visit its iconic church and view the lock-in tower to discover the history of the "Kanun". The "kulla" offered protection to those affected by the Blood Feud and is the right place to learn about the former highland law code; it also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. Following water channels, the path ascends to the Grunas Waterfall, drops again to a cliff above the river and the 50m deep Grunas Canyon. A well-worn bridle path leads you along the river downstream to Nderlysaj. Arriving there in the hot midday sun, the Kaprea river and it’s stone pools invite for a swim. The scenic transfer across the Thorja Pass (1.630 m) into the Valley of Boge and along the Lake of Shkoder (75km/46.5mi) takes you back to the hotel of the first night in Shkoder arriving after 5pm. At night it's time to celebrate the end of the trek. Overnight: Hotel Hike: 16km/10mi +225m/745ft, -500m/1650ft Transfer time: 3hrs

After breakfast, there’s time for a walk in the pedestrian area and for any last-minute souvenir shopping. At 10am (or earlier) the group transfer will leave for Tirana (airport or city). To extend your travels, you can stay and explore the town of Shkoder, head to the nearby beaches in Velipoja and Ulcinj (Montenegro), experience Albania's modern side in the capital Tirana or head to the Albanian Riviera (5-7hrs travel time).