Japan: Koya-san & Kumano Kodo Trek

Konnichiwa! Welcome to Kyoto, Japan. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting at 6 pm tonight. If you arrive early, step out onto the streets for your first taste of this beautiful city. Originally founded as Heian-kyo (translating to the ‘tranquillity and peace capital’) in AD 794, Kyoto was the capital of Japan for over 1000 years before the emperor and government relocated to Tokyo. Because of this, Kyoto is home to over 2000 temples, shrines and gardens. After the meeting tonight, maybe head out for your first taste of local Japanese food. As the millennium-long home of the imperial kitchen, Kyoto is known as the centre of Japanese culinary tradition, so the first dinner of your adventure is sure to be a tasty one.

Get active this morning with a walk to the 8th-century Shimogamo Shrine – located at the intersection of the Kamo and Takano rivers. The shrine is dedicated to the god of harvest and holds many rites around purification and agricultural produce. On this visit, you’ll be introduced to Shintoism – an indigenous belief system connecting ancient past and present Japanese culture. Continue to the renowned Ginkaku-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion, to see Japanese garden design at its best and learn about the key principles of Japanese Zen. After, take a short but steep hike up behind Ginkaku-ji for scenic views over Kyoto. On your way back to the hotel, walk along Philosopher’s Path, lined with cherry blossom trees. If there’s time, you’ll also stop by two other Zen temples. Today’s introduction to the cultural significance of Buddhism and Shintoism will inform some aspects of your hiking trails in the days to come, so listen up!

Take a train to Kii-Hosokawa Station in the Koya-san district, ready for your forest trek. Koya-san is the name given to a monastic complex in the Koya-Ryujin Quasi-National Park and is one of Japan’s most sacred sites. Begin your trek on the Koya-san Choishi Michi trail, passing stone signposts (choishi), which stand every few hundred metres – these signs helped the original pilgrims find their way. You’ll reach Daimon Gate – a two-storey crimson gate that marks the entrance to Koya-san. As the centre of Shingon Buddhism, Koya-san is steeped in centuries of history, and you’ll learn about its role as an active spiritual centre this afternoon. Tonight, you’ll stay in traditional shukubo (temple stay) accommodation and tuck into a shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian) meal provided by your hosts.

This morning, you’ll have the chance to participate in the monastery’s morning prayers, before making tracks to Yunomine Onsen by private vehicle. This journey weaves through the Koya-san and Kumano Kodo mountains. Yunomine is an ancient onsen town that forms part of the Kumano Kodo trail, which you’ll be trekking in the coming days. Yunomine Onsen has such a long history that one of its onsens, Tsuboyu, is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site. Historically, pilgrims would perform religious purification rituals in the hot spring water as part of their pilgrimage. You’ll also get to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha – one of the three grand Shinto shrines on the Kumano Kodo.

Embrace an early start as you set out this morning to hike part of the historic Kumano Kodo – one of only two UNESCO World Heritage-listed pilgrimage routes (the other being the Camino de Santiago in Spain)! This morning, transfer to Ukegawa by bus, then begin hiking to Koguchi. The first 5 km are a gradual uphill path to Hyakken-gura, then it’s an undulating trail to the Sakuratoge Pass for around 3.5 km. After this, the trail will mostly be downhill until you reach Koguchi. Today’s trails are surrounded by forests full of cedar and cypress trees, and upon reaching the Hyakken-gura peak, you’ll be greeted with sweeping views of the mountainous terrain of Wakayama.

Get ready for another full-day hike on the sacred Kumano Kodo. For the first 3 hours or so, it’s a steep uphill climb, rising to over 800 m. After reaching the Echizen-toge Pass, follow the ridge of the forest for another couple of kilometres until you reach the highest point at Funami-jaya teahouse, sitting at around 868 m (2848 ft). Continue mostly downhill to Nachi Taisha – another of the three Kumano shrines and probably the most photographed because of the waterfalls that cascade in the background. Enjoy the peaceful scenery and sense of accomplishment before heading by local bus to Kii Katsuura this afternoon. Your accommodation this evening is a Japanese-style guesthouse.

In the morning, visit the local tuna market at Kii Katsuura, where tuna from the cool waters of the Pacific is traded daily. Then, hop on a train and rest your legs for the long journey to Osaka. You’ll arrive around lunchtime, then head out on a walking tour with your leader to the famous Dotombori neighbourhood – the city’s most popular shopping, food and entertainment district. At night, this district is illuminated by hundreds of neon lights and mechanised signs, including the famous Glico Running Man and Kani Doraku crab. Tonight, get together with your group for a final dinner to celebrate your journey!