Via Francigena: Viterbo to Rome

Arrive in the medieval town of Viterbo, renowned for its well-preserved historic centre and papal palaces. After checking in to your hotel, wander through cobbled streets lined with stone houses, discover hidden piazzas, and take time to soak up the relaxed rhythm of this once-important papal seat. It’s the perfect place to begin your journey south, with its mix of history, character and timeless charm.

Leaving the town behind, the trail leads you into peaceful countryside and shaded forests, with the chance to spot an ancient Etruscan underground tomb along the way (standard route). If you choose the more challenging official route, you’ll follow paths along the slopes of the Cimini Mountains and pass through the charming village of San Martino al Cimino. By afternoon, you arrive at the gates of Vetralla, where you can visit the evocative ruins of the Pieve of Saint Marie di Forcassi – a fine example of the region’s early architecture. On your arrival, treat yourself to a snack of rustic bread and the local extra-virgin olive oil, before enjoying a walk through the alleyways of the old town centre. Dinner and overnight stay in Vetralla. Distance: 22km/13.8mi, ascent: 525m/1722ft, descent: 548m/1798ft. Surf/unsurf 51/49%

With a full day ahead, an early start is recommended. From Vetralla, the trail follows the ridge of an ancient volcanic crater, once filled by Lake Vico. As you walk, the landscape opens into classic Etruscan countryside before reaching the small hilltop village of Capranica. From here the path descends into a dramatic tuff gorge, where the trail traces the stream below. This section is especially striking, though it can be challenging if water levels are high. Your walk ends in Sutri, a small town with a big history. Known as the “gateway to Etruria,” Sutri is home to fascinating archaeological remains including an ancient Roman amphitheater carved directly into the tuff rock - the choice is yours whether you sit on the terraces or get up on stage but as you leave remember to sign the visitors register - if the custodian is there he will invite you to do this. Its also where you find the church of Santa Maria del Parto, a Mithraeum later converted into a church, where the tufo walls of which are decorated in well preserved frescoes (look for the group of pilgrims among the images), and medieval city walls that still stand today. The town itself is atmospheric, with cobblestone streets, lively piazzas, and welcoming trattorias – a rewarding place to relax and enjoy dinner at your leisure after your walk. Distance: 25.5km/15.8mi, ascent: 470m/1542ft. descent: 475m/1558ft Surf/unsurf 31/69%

The day begins with a gentle walk across open fields before arriving in Monterosi, a small village with medieval origins that once stood as an important stop on the Via Cassia. In the centre of town you’ll find a 17th-century baroque fountain and narrow lanes that speak to its historic character. Just beyond Monterosi are the Monte Gelato waterfalls – a peaceful cascade in a woodland setting, ideal for a rest or even a refreshing swim on a warm day. A panoramic road in the Veio Nature Park will bring you to the gates of Campagnano. Here you can rest in the Venturi Park, the home of a three-hundred year old Yew tree the locals call the “Tree of Death”: but don’t worry, you can sit in its shade without any danger! This hilltop town is steeped in history, with medieval gates, Renaissance palaces and the atmospheric old quarter to explore. The town’s churches, including San Giovanni Battista and Madonna del Sorbo Sanctuary just outside the center, reflect its long religious heritage. Campagnano is also known for its welcoming trattorias, where you can relax and enjoy an authentic Roman countryside meal after your walk. For those preferring a shorter stage, it’s possible to arrange a morning transfer to Monterosi or take a local bus, reducing the distance on foot (note: taxi transfers must be pre-booked). Distance: 25km/15.7mi, ascent: 375m/1230ft, descent: 400m/1312ft Surf/unsurf 48/52%

Leaving Campagnano, the trail leads you into the Veio Nature Park, a landscape of wooded hills and quiet valleys. Soon you enter the enchanting Valle del Sorbo, where you can pause to admire the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sorbo, a historic pilgrimage site. Continuing on, the path takes you into the old town of Formello, with its medieval streets and stone buildings that recall centuries of history. Further along, you’ll reach the small village of Isola Farnese, dramatically perched on a cliff and surrounded by forest. Overlooking the settlement is the Castello Farnese, a striking fortress that can be visited by pre-booking online, offering panoramic views across the valleys. The final stretch carries you through the Roman countryside before reaching the hamlet of La Giustiniana. Located on the northern outskirts of Rome, La Giustiniana has long served as a natural gateway to the Eternal City for pilgrims arriving on the Via Francigena. Today it’s a quiet suburban area with local cafés, trattorias and a convenient train station that links directly to the city center. (Subject to availability overnight may be at Isola Farnese, 5km less walking today, 5km more tomorrow). Distance: 25km/15.5mi, ascent: 580m/1903ft, descent: 690m/2263ft. Surf/unsurf 56/44% If you wish to shorten the walk today you can take a bus from La Storta to La Giustiniana to avoid the last stretch.

You’ve reached the final leg of your journey into the Eternal City. Your final day begins from Giustiniana where the route sets out along the sidewalk of the historic Via Cassia before soon entering the green corridor of Parco dell’Insugherata. From here, you return to the city along Via Trionfale, making use of a pedestrian and cycle bridge near the Vatican walls. This last approach carries you into the energy of Rome, with stretches of traffic reminding you that you are entering a great metropolis. The reward, however, comes as you climb to the Belvedere di Monte Mario. From this panoramic viewpoint, you’ll catch your first unforgettable glimpse of St Peter’s dome rising above the Eternal City. The route then descends towards Piazza San Pietro, the symbolic end point of both your journey and of the northern Via Francigena. Be sure to capture a triumphant photograph in front of St Peter’s Basilica before celebrating with a Roman feast – perhaps spring lamb, pecorino romano cheese, or a maritozzo pastry filled with cream. A well-earned finale to your pilgrimage. Distance: 16km/10mi, ascent: +310m/1017ft, descent: -450m/1476 ft Surf/unsurf 77/23%

The trip concludes in Rome, with arrangements ending after breakfast. With much to do and see in Rome, it is well worth extending your stay so you can explore the city. We can book extra nights, please ask for our rates.